Halong Bay, a mystical seascape of limestone pillars and emerald waters, is Vietnam’s jewel and a place that feels both otherworldly and intimately tied to the rhythms of nature and history.
My journey began in the bustling port city of Ha Long, a gateway to the bay that has seen rapid development in recent years. The skyline is punctuated by new hotels, resorts, and the Sun World amusement park, a sign of the area’s burgeoning tourism industry. However, the allure of Halong Bay remains timeless, a stark contrast to the modernity encroaching at its edges.
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| Traditional junk, Violet, from Heritage Cruises (supplied) |
Boarding a traditional junk boat, I was immediately struck by the contrast between the bay’s serene beauty and the vibrant life back in Ha Long City. As the boat glided over the tranquil waters, I watched the towering limestone karsts emerge from the mist, each one a silent sentinel guarding the secrets of the bay. These formations, legend has it, were created by dragons sent by the gods to protect Vietnam from invaders. The dragons, spitting jewels and jade, formed the islands and islets that now dot the landscape.
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| Sung Sot Cave (Roderick Eime) |
Our first stop was the Sung Sot Cave, or Surprise Cave, a name that felt fitting as I navigated its expansive chambers adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. The cave, discovered by the French in 1901, is one of the largest in the bay and offers a glimpse into the geological wonders hidden beneath the surface. Walking through the dimly lit caverns, I marveled at the natural formations that seemed to take on shapes and forms of mythical creatures, a testament to nature’s artistry.
Back on the boat, we cruised further into the bay, passing by floating fishing villages where families have lived for generations. These villages, with their colorful boats and stilt houses, represent a way of life that is slowly disappearing. The encroachment of tourism and the government’s relocation efforts have threatened these communities, adding a layer of poignancy to their already fragile existence. I spoke with a local fisherman, whose family had lived on the water for decades. His stories of fishing under the stars and navigating the bay’s hidden channels were tinged with a sense of loss as he recounted the dwindling fish stocks and the pressures of modernity.
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| Halong Bay (Roderick Eime) |
As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden hue over the water, I couldn’t help but reflect on the delicate balance between preserving Halong Bay’s natural beauty and accommodating the influx of tourists drawn to its shores. Luxury cruises, complete with fine dining and entertainment, offer a stark contrast to the simple, sustainable lifestyle of the bay’s original inhabitants. The juxtaposition is striking: modernity and tradition coexisting, sometimes uneasily, within this ancient landscape.
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| Kayaking in Halong Bay (Roderick Eime) |
The next morning, I kayaked through the quieter corners of the bay, where the towering karsts created a labyrinthine waterway. The silence was profound, broken only by the splash of paddles and the occasional call of a seabird. In these moments, it was easy to understand why Halong Bay has inspired poets, writers, and artists for centuries. The sense of awe and reverence it evokes is universal, a reminder of nature’s capacity for grandeur.
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| Halong City (Roderick Eime) |
Returning to Ha Long City, the signs of development were impossible to ignore. New construction projects and infrastructure improvements aimed at accommodating the growing number of visitors seemed both a boon and a challenge. The economic benefits are clear, but so too are the risks of over-commercialization and environmental degradation.
In true Louis Theroux style, my exploration of Halong Bay left me with more questions than answers. How do we balance the needs of progress with the imperative to protect and preserve? Can the bay’s natural and cultural heritage withstand the pressures of modern tourism? Halong Bay, with its timeless beauty and complex narrative, stands as a testament to the ongoing dialogue between the past and the present, nature and human endeavor. It is a place that captivates and challenges, inviting travelers to look beyond the surface and engage with its deeper stories.
FACT FILE
Getting there: VietJet Air flies to Hanoi with both domestic and international links. See VietJet Air
Staying there: OAKWOOD HA LONG
Cruising: Heritage Line
Fun Park: SunWorld Halong
ABOUT HALONG BAY
Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in northeastern Vietnam, is renowned for its extraordinary natural beauty and significant cultural heritage. Covering an area of approximately 1,553 square kilometers, the bay is home to nearly 2,000 limestone islets and karsts, which rise dramatically from the emerald waters. These formations, shaped over millions of years, create a stunning seascape of towering cliffs, hidden caves, and serene lagoons.
The bay's geological significance is matched by its rich biodiversity, supporting a wide array of marine and terrestrial life. Halong Bay's unique ecosystems are critical for scientific research and conservation efforts.
Culturally, Halong Bay is deeply intertwined with Vietnamese history and folklore. Local legends speak of dragons descending from the heavens to protect the land, giving the bay its name, which means "Descending Dragon." Archaeological findings suggest that human habitation in the area dates back thousands of years, with ancient fishing communities leaving behind a legacy of stilt houses and floating villages.
Today, Halong Bay is a major tourist destination, attracting visitors from around the world. Its breathtaking scenery, combined with opportunities for kayaking, cave exploration, and overnight cruises, make it a must-visit location. Despite the influx of tourism, efforts are being made to preserve its natural and cultural heritage, ensuring Halong Bay remains an iconic and treasured part of Vietnam's landscape.
FLIGHTS TO VIETNAM
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| Fly to Vietnam with Vietjet |
The new-age carrier Vietjet has not only revolutionized the aviation industry in Vietnam but also been a pioneering airline across the region and around the world. With a focus on cost management ability, effective operations, and performance, applying the latest technology to all activities and leading the trend, Vietjet offers flying opportunities with cost-saving and flexible fares as well as diversified services to meet customers’ demands.
Vietjet is a fully-fledged member of the International Air Transport Association (IATA) with the IATA Operational Safety Audit (IOSA) certificate. As Vietnam’s largest private carrier, the airline has been awarded the highest ranking for safety with 7 stars by the world’s only safety and product rating website airlineratings.com and listed as one of the world's 50 best airlines for healthy financing and operations by Airfinance Journal in many consecutive years. The airline has also been named as Best Low-Cost Carrier by renowned organizations such as Skytrax, CAPA, Airline Ratings, and many others.
