Cruise Weekly Comment: Burma

Cruise Weekly – Comment by Roderick Eime

I reckon it would be tough selling anything to do with Burma, yet the tenacity and optimism of Pandaw Cruises is inspirational. Resurrected in 1995 from the original Irrawaddy Flotilla Company of the 1860s, the gorgeously recreated vessels typically carry around 60 pax in nostalgic, teak-and-brass luxury.

Traditional river cruising, European style, is normally far-removed from the adventure product, but with Pandaw there is a definite crossover. Itineraries include shore excursions, village visits, historic sites and cultural encounters in sufficient quantity to easily qualify as an adventure product.

With luxury accommodation as a basis, passengers enjoy an extensive selection of cruises encompassing Myanmar, the Mekong (Cambodia and Vietnam) and now Borneo aboard a growing fleet currently comprising six vessels.

The vision of the far-sighted and heritage-minded Scotsman, Paul Strachan, he regrets once being seen as an apologist for the Burmese regime but, according to fellow Scot Colin Donald, stoutly defends one of the few foreign owned businesses that puts money in the pocket of the ordinary Burmese.

As if Burma needed another setback, Cyclone Nargis tore the Delta region apart in May. Instead of throwing his hands up in despair, Strachan activated his fleet as floating hospitals and supply vessels and was one of the few aid providers to make a measurable impact on the suffering of the God-forsaken Burmese. His humanitarian work continues.

Website: www.pandaw.com

Cruise West Returns to Vietnam in 2009

Cruise West (www.cruisewest.com), the global leader in small-ship exploration voyages and the largest American-owned cruise line, is reintroducing its Vietnam itinerary in 2009. Back by popular demand, Cruise West's Vietnam voyage will take place upon the company's flagship and most luxurious vessel, the 120-guest Spirit of Oceanus. The itinerary will give travelers the chance to experience Asian destinations such as Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Hue while discovering Vietnam's architecture, art, and ancient shrines. Along the way, guests will sample traditional Vietnamese cuisine, enjoy beautiful dance, martial arts and colorful puppet theater.

The 12-day journey commencing in Hanoi and ending in Ho Chi Minh City will depart on November 21, 2009, and includes tours along the Gulf of Tonkin - some 1,600 mostly uninhabited islands and islets; Hue, the Imperial City on the Perfume River; the temples and picturesque fishing boats of Nha Trang and more. Other highlights include the Cham Museum, a special private performance of traditional martial arts in Qui Nhon and UNESCO World Heritage Site Ha Long Bay.

"Cruse West's Asian itineraries are an important component of our goal to be an international cruise line," stated Dietmar R. Wertanzl, newly appointed president and CEO of Cruise West. "The decision to reintroduce our Vietnam itinerary was an obvious one given the interest in the destination our guests continue to express."

While onboard the SOO, Exploration Leaders and guest speakers will share information about the people and places visited throughout the itinerary. Cruise West's Single Share Program is available on the Vietnam itinerary, allowing single travelers who are willing to share a room with another single traveler of the same gender to pay the double occupancy fare on the cruise. Prices start at $5,649 for double occupancy rooms.

An optional five-day Angkor Wat/Cambodia add-on includes tours of the Temples at Angkor Wat including the spiritual center of Ta Prohm, Tonle Sap Lake, a floating fishing village of homes, shops and deepwater rice paddies, Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

For additional information, a complete itinerary or to book the Cruise West Vietnam Cruise, call 1-800-296-8307 or visit (http://www.cruisewest.com/destinations/vietnam).

~ Up-Close, Casual and Personal Cruising ~

Cruise West offers the opportunity to explore remote and distinctive destinations throughout North and Central America, Asia, South Pacific and Europe. Small-ship cruising allows for personalized experiences not offered by larger cruise lines. Guest capacities aboard Cruise West's nine ships range from 78-138. Guests may expect personal enrichment through insightful shore programs, onboard narrative and presentations by local experts from a wide variety of backgrounds. In addition, destination specific materials and an array of books are provided in the onboard library on every vessel. Cruise West considers it a privilege to access some of the world's most pristine wilderness areas and culturally rich countries. With this in mind, Cruise West views itself as good stewards and encourages crew and guests to act responsibly with respect to the environment and diverse cultures visited. For more information, call 1-800-296-8307 or visit www.cruisewest.com.

HURTIGRUTEN'S MS NORDNORGE CAPTAIN AND CREW HONORED

HURTIGRUTEN'S MS NORDNORGE CAPTAIN AND CREW HONORED WITH AFRAS AWARD FOR THEIR EFFORTS IN RESCUING 154 PASSENGERS FROM SINKING EXPEDITION SHIP

Captain Arnvid Hansen and the crew of Hurtigruten's MS Nordnorge were honored by the Association for Rescue at Sea, Inc. (AFRAS) at the association's annual awards ceremony in Washington, D.C. for their efforts in the rescue of the crew and passengers of a sinking expedition ship. On November 23, 2007, MS Nordnorge's captain and crew came to the aid of 154 passengers and crew sailing aboard the Explorer, an expedition cruise ship that hit ice and eventually sank off the waters of the Antarctic Peninsula.

"Thanks to the willingness of the captain and crew of MS Nordnorge to divert from course and expertly come to the rescue of the passengers from the sinking cruise ship Explorer, 154 lives were saved," AFRAS said in a prepared statement.

Answering an Amver distress call, Captain Hansen and his crew diverted the MS Nordnorge, an ice-rated ship made to travel in these types of waters, from its itinerary and sailed approximately five hours to reach the area where the Explorer's passengers and crew had taken to the rough and frigid seas in lifeboats. Hansen and his crew focused their efforts on bringing those passengers and crew safely aboard the 350-passenger MS Nordnorge where the ship's on-board medical staff examined each of them. No injuries were reported beyond being cold and tired. MS Nordnorge passengers were also involved, offering comforting words and much needed clothing to the evacuees, while ship ferried their new guests and crew to King George Island for flights to the South American mainland.

AFRAS is a non-profit foundation, supporting services concerned with saving lives at sea. The AFRAS Amver award was created in 1996 to recognize the contributions of seamen in ships at sea to the safety of all their fellow mariners. Nominations for all awards are made by the United States Coast Guard's Search and Rescue Division.

Built in 1997, the MS Nordnorge was custom crafted to cruise Norway's narrow fjords and icy polar waters. Its interiors feature Art Nouveau and Art Deco embellishments, a variety of staterooms and suites, restaurant, panoramic lounges, library, Internet cafe and conference rooms.

Hurtigruten is a world leader in exploration cruising sailing to the most remote of destinations including Antarctica, Greenland and the Arctic's Spitsbergen. For more information about the cruise line, contact Hurtigruten at (800) 323-7436 or (212) 319-1300; fax (212) 319-1390; for brochures, (800) 666-2374, 24 hours a day; www.hurtigruten.us

ROCKY ENCOUNTERS OF THE BEAR FIND

david ellis with john crook

IT'S a bit like the mystery of the one sock in the washing machine.

There are signs everywhere warning of the presence of bears. And how dangerous bears can be.

The friendly staff at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge constantly repeat the warnings, and fellow guests tell us of their Close Encounters of the Bear Find in the surrounding spruce forests.

But we've been here a week and we've walked bush trails, and hiked lake frontages and not a bear have we seen. Are all these signs and all this talk, we start to ask ourselves, just part of a big publicity stunt to get us – and others from around the world – to this vast Canadian wilderness?

We even find on the Travel Alberta website a "Bear Update" that tells us where bears have been seen – and again how dangerous they can be.

"They're on the move now that Spring is here, looking for berry crops," it warns. Adding that campers should ensure that any food, garbage and recyclables are stowed away and bear-proofed.

So, hey, in the hope of seeing bears, cameras slung around our necks, we go in search of a camp ground. We find several, but still there's not a bear to be found. Maybe they've become wise to all that bear-proofing of what was once easy pickings?

But there's plenty more to be enjoyed here in this most northerly and largest National Park in Canada's famous Rockies, and we decide to finish our stay with an early morning round of golf – after all, the Jasper Park Lodge has been listed as best golf resort in Canada.

But even here we're thwarted, for just as we're about to tee-off next morning, who comes ambling down the fairway to put us off our swing? Not one, not two, but a whole damn family of them: Bears - Mum, Dad and their coupla kids. Wandering along in a world of their own, stopping occasionally to sniff the air and sensing we – now rapidly retreating – human intruders.

We take shelter in the car and click away to our hearts content, telling anyone who'll listen that it was worth a week's wait for this magical moment.

And we guess that really, while that magic half hour will remain with us forever, it's the spectacular surrounding Rockies that is the big attraction here.

"A little bit of heaven," are the words we hear over and again as we wend our way across to Lake Louise, where we pinch ourselves and decide that it was here the WOW factor was created.

Amid the craggy snow-capped peaks that tower into the skies, is the fabled Lake Louise, and next to it and beside a massive glacier, is the very indulgent Fairmont Chateau Resort: it doesn't come cheap, but even if you're staying elsewhere its well worth visiting the hotel for a drink in one of its bars, or a meal in the restaurant for the reward of its million-dollar views – no, MULTI-million dollar views.

And for a walk around the lake and onto Victoria Glacier – and a bracing diversion 3.5k's along trails first opened into the Rockies in the 1890s  to the remarkable Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse.

This extraordinary place was built of local stones gathered-up by a Swiss artisan for the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1924, and to this day still has no electricity or gas, the kitchens that turn out the most marvellous always-warm scones, jam and cream, tea, coffee and other refreshments relying on an ancient fuel stove.

And just as they did back in the 1920s, staff bring-in fresh supplies daily by  backpack or on horseback.

The Fairmont Hotel chain also have a luxury property at Banff Springs in neighbouring British Columbia that was built for the well-heeled traveller of the early 20th century venturing to the largest accumulation of snow and ice south of the Arctic Circle in the Columbia Icefield.

Amongst the highlights of adventures here is Brewster Tours' million-dollar ice-terrain vehicle, Ice Explorer onto the ancient Athabasca Glacier that stretches over six kilometres long and a kilometre wide.

For a Canadian Rockies holiday ask travel agents or Canada & Alaska Specialist Holidays on 1300 79 49 59 about packages incorporating Fairmont Hotels and Lodges.

                                                        ………………

PHOTO CAPTIONS:


[] AIN'T he cute? Maybe, but he's not to be toyed with on the green

[] A LITTLE bit of Heaven: escaping to the Rockies' Chateau Lake Louse where the WOW factor was created

[] WHEN its time to head for the hills... Banff Springs Chateau Fairmont

(Photos: Canadian Tourism)

PORT EXCURSIONS INCLUDED WITH ADVENTURE CRUISES

Spirit of Adventure is giving cruise-goers extra value with its discovery cruise packages to some of the world's more unusual destinations in 2009, by including guided excursions to main attractions and landmarks in the majority of ports to be visited by its ships, Spirit of Adventure and Quest for Adventure that has just come out of a multi-million (British) pound refurbishment.

As well onboard guest speakers who specialise in subjects from archaeology and history to local traditions and food and fine, will join these half- and full-day excursions led by local professional guides.

Cruiseco, a consortium of cruise-specialist travel agencies Australia-wide that represents Spirit of Adventure exclusively in Australia, has just released a 48-page brochure that details a near-50 seven to 21-night cruises in 2009.

They will embrace destinations as diverse as the Canary Islands, the Antarctic, Brazil, the Caribbean, Africa, Iceland, the Norwegian Fjords, the Mediterranean, Far East, Indonesia, Borneo and vineyards regions of France.

All meals, nightly entertainment, onboard gratuities and excursions in most ports are included; both ships feature casual dress most evenings with a choice of main Dining Room or indoor/outdoor buffets with open seating.

Cruiseco has big Early Bird savings with prices from just $1970pp from a 7-night Canary Islands cruise aboard Spirit of Adventure from Funchal in Portugal's Madeira Islands through five ports to Santa Cruz on Tenerife – including wine with lunch and dinner on this cruise; air is additional.

For a free brochure detailing cruises on both ships phone 1800 225 656 for the name of your nearest Cruiseco agency, or visit http://www.cruising.com.au/

Prices are subject to currency fluctuations.

WILD WAYS OF KEEPING ON TRACK

david ellis

THE Mt Lyell Mining Company had good reason for the motto it affixed to the front of the first locomotive it ran from Tasmania's western port of Strahan to it's copper mine thirty-five tortuous kilometres away in the wild coastal hinterland.

It read "Labour Omnia Vincit," Latin for "We Find A Way Or Make It."

It was March 1897, and today there's every chance that even with 21st century technology no company would be foolhardy enough to even contemplate a railway like that of the Mt Lyell Mining Company.

For here was a line whose locos using the then-revolutionary Abt Horizontal Cog-wheel System to traverse tracks that in places climbed mountains at almost-impossible 1-in-16 inclines, crossed some of the most ingenious hand-built bridges in railway history, and ran through cuttings hand-dug 20-metres deep through rock and clay – one alone requiring the removal of 80,000 barrow-loads of rock.

And all this amid confronting conditions that included torrential rain, ice, bushfires, floods, countless snakes and millions of leeches.

But somehow despite it all, when Mt Lyell in the early 1900s became Australia's largest mine at the time, the unique little narrow-gauge railway chugged away for 67-years, "truly earning its keep" the company said, before finally being closed in the 1960s.

Today it is running again, the line having been re-opened in 2002 at a cost of $30m from the Federal and Tasmanian Governments and with huge public support – and with two of its original five Abt locomotives internationally recognised as the world's oldest restored working steam locos.

It took a special breed to build the Mt Lyell Railway, both in the field and in the boardroom. Surveyors cut 500-kilometres of tracks through the wilderness before finding a suitable route for the line after gold, silver and then copper were found by adventurous prospectors who followed river courses into the seemingly-impenetrable hinterland.

Those surveyor's reports back to the boardroom told of impassable mountains and rainforests so dense the sun never touched the earth, of sudden floods washing away camps and equipment, of lightning-strike wildfires, and of ravines just twenty metres wide and little deeper, that would take a day to cut a track down one side and another day to climb the opposite.

But company directors, dubbed by one historian as "lion hearts fired by wild optimism," were determined to press ahead, and announced their railway on November 24 1892.

Vast teams of navvies contracted to build the line were mostly inadequately outfitted for the weather and terrain, and to compound their misery lived for weeks on end on a monotonously unbroken diet of canned food; hundreds became ill and walked away as soon as they had enough money for a steamer fare back to the mainland.

Thousands of trees were felled by axe and cross-cut saw and turned into timber for hundreds of thousands of rail sleepers – and over forty bridges that made up over six per cent of the length of the line.

And the longest bridge, a 110-tonne, 43-metre iron structure was shipped out from England.

To get it into position across the King River it was lowered from the ship onto a high trestle mounted on a barge, which was then towed into position and weighed down with thousands of sandbags that sank it low enough for the bridge to settle on its concrete abutments, and for the barge to float free.

Today thousands of visitors from around the world ride the restored Mt Lyell Railway that originally hauled copper ingots from smelters at Queenstown in the mountains, and also carried hardy pioneer passengers, 35km to Regatta Point at Strahan on the coast.

Now dubbed the West Coast Wilderness Railway it's one of the world's great wild-country train rides, with stops at several historic stations and sites along the way, and in places seeming to cling precariously to vertical cliffs that overlook wild rivers raging hundreds of metres below.

Onboard guides tell the history of the original railway, the unique Abt system, the restoration of the line, engines and passengers carriages, and point out places of historical importance: one-way by rail and the other by coach takes approximately five hours and costs from $123pp. Book through Federal Hotels 1800 420 155.

……………………….

PHOTO CAPTIONS:

[] STANDING at the station, high in Tasmania's wilderness.

[] WORLD's oldest restored working steam locomotive.

[] (Inset: Clinging to vertical cliffs overlooking wild rivers hundreds of

metres below.)

(Photos: John Crook and Tasmanian Tourism)

Coral Princess Cruises Awarded “Top Gong” at Tourism Awards

Coral Princess Cruises was recognised at the Tropical North Queensland (TNQ) Tourism Awards on Saturday night, taking out the top tourism award category of Major Tour and Transport Operator for the company’s three, four and seven-night Great Barrier Reef cruises.

In Coral Princess Cruises’ 25th anniversary year, the tourism award is welcome acknowledgement of the company’s commitment to the local industry and eco-sensitive cruising on the Great Barrier Reef.

Coral Princess Cruises’ Founder and Managing Director, Tony Briggs, pioneered small ship, expedition-style cruising in Australia, beginning in North Queensland 25 years ago and still based in Cairns. In the years since, the company has grown to become Australia’s premier small ship cruise line and has expanded operations to include itineraries in the Kimberley, Papua New Guinea, Vanuatu, Melanesia and New Zealand.

“Being recognised by our industry peers in such a vibrant and competitive market is a great honour – especially in our anniversary year. We are very proud to have played a founding role in the development of environmentally-sensitive tourism in North Queensland and – along with our dedicated and highly-skilled staff - we’ll continue to promote the Reef as one of the world’s greatest natural wonders,” said Mr Briggs.

Coral Princess is a family-owned, eco-accredited and multi-award-winning company that operates two vessels – the Coral Princess and Coral Princess II – on the Great Barrier Reef, taking up to 48 passengers on each ship. The third ship in the company’s fleet is the luxury 72-passenger Oceanic Discoverer which operates in the Kimberley, PNG, New Zealand and the Pacific. For further information, call 1800 079 545 or visit www.coralprincess.com.au.

Nearly 500 tourism representatives and supporters attended the Tourism North Queensland Awards, held at the Cairns Convention Centre on Saturday, October 11, where winners who had excelled in their field over the past 12 months were announced in 23 award categories.