Cruise Weekly Comment: Antarctica

Cruise Weekly – Comment by Roderick Eime

It's becoming cliché to call Antarctica the planet's last wilderness adventure, but it's almost certainly still true.

The doddle over the Drake Passage from Tierra del Fuego is nearly a commute for the 20-plus vessels that ply the relatively calm waters of the Peninsula each year. So now the bar needs raising and operators are looking more and more at the 'heroic' voyage from either Hobart or Christchurch to the far south regions of Commonwealth Bay and McMurdo Sound.

Once the sole domain of Quark Expeditions' rugged icebreaker, Khapitan Khlebnikov, she is now joined by vessels from Aurora, Orion and Heritage. This year German line Hapag-Lloyd will again send their luxury expedition vessel MS Bremen on two month-long voyages to the extreme south.

For those with a burning desire, this is the ultimate expedition 'cruise', although 'cruise' it is not. Before you shed five figures for the voyage, just bear in mind you'll be crossing the wildest seas in the world en route to the most ferocious environment our planet can deliver. It is not for the faint hearted.

However those who steel themselves for this extreme adventure will be rewarded with experiences unparalleled by any other voyage, including the North Pole. You may see the rare Emperor Penguin or visit bases built one hundred years ago for explorers like Mawson, Shackleton and Scott plus visit existing scientific outposts.

But make this choice carefully.

BREMEN comes fully refurbished from the dockyard

Returned to its pristine condition, the Hapag-Lloyd expedition cruise ship will be leaving the dockyards of the Japanese city of Yokohama on October the 10th. For two whole weeks, the ship was subject to extensive renovation, modernization and other additional service offerings. The very first guests to benefit from this are the participants of the “Knowledge Expedition” to Japan, Korea, Taiwan and China.

Not only can BREMEN passengers look forward to a first-hand encounter with the treasures of Asian culture and the support of renowned speakers familiar with the area but to numerous improvements on board as well. Additional computers and Internet connections, new carpeting, bathrooms and furniture are but some of the new features. All cabins have also been furnished with new flat screen TVs and converted to non-smoking cabins. A new Cruise Sales Area near the front desk and the renovation of the public convenience facilities round off the refurbishment of the BREMEN. Just prior to the commencement of the renovation, the international renowned “BERLITZ Cruise Guide 2009“ awarded the BREMEN with a 4-star rating.

Shallow draught, the highest ice class for passenger ships (E4) and twelve Zodiacs, characterise the BREMEN as an expedition cruise ship. The ship has been designed to sail through narrow fjords and rivers or to land in hidden bays. There is no better way for the max. 164 guests on board to experience such an intense sense of being at the core of it all, than for instance during a cruise through the Antarctic from New Zealand halfway around the white continent to Tierra del Fuego. This semi-circumnavigation is provided by very few ships, offering up-close encounters with majestic table icebergs in the Ross Sea, whales, gigantic colonies of Adelie Penguins and research stations. The BREMEN also displays many of its strengths on the upper reaches of the Amazon in Peru: Equipped with Zodiacs and local guides, guests can penetrate the very heart of the jungle and partake in discovering river dolphins and tapirs, Indian villages and colonial cities.

Expedition Semi-Circumnavigation (BRE0901) from Bluff to Ushuaia, 11/1/2009 to 15/2/2009, 36 days, from 17,350 Euro.

Expedition Amazon (BRE0907) from Iquitos to Belem, 26/4/2009 to 12/5/2009, 16 days, from 8,238 Euro.

For more information on Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ exciting destinations and itineraries visit www.hl-cruises.com. Further information is available from your travel agent or from Hapag-Lloyd Cruises, Ballindamm 25, 20095 Hamburg, Germany, phone: +49 / 40 / 3001 4600, fax: +49 / 40 / 3001 4601. For bookings, inquiries or to request a brochure in the US call 877-445-7447. To download the latest images of the ships, visit www.hl-cruises.com, link “press”.

New 2009 Dates for Northern Fijian Dateline Cruise

Due to the popularity of the unique Northern Fijian Dateline Cruise, Captain Cook Cruises has added and extra departure date to the schedule for 2009, bringing total scheduled departures to eight.

The new 2009 departure dates are: 31March, 05 May, 02 June, 30 June, 04 August, 01September, 06 October and 03 November.

The seven night Northern Fijian Dateline Cruise is an amazing cruise that reveals the unique history, art and culture of the Northern Fiji Islands and allows passengers the ultimate experience of standing’ on the International Dateline.

Developed after months of extensive research and searching for secluded and exclusive locations, passengers are taken beyond the Yasawa Islands to very remote and exotic tropical Fijian islands.

Day trips include the historic island of Ovalau which still features 19th Century colonial architecture and waterfront promenades from colonial rule, the Bouma Waterfall lagoon on Taveuni Island, the extinct volcanic crater, hot springs and thriving markets on Savusavu, a special children’s choral church service at Waiyevo and of course the 180th Meridian – the arbitrary Dateline between today and tomorrow on Taveuni Island.

There is plenty of swimming, snorkelling and diving off picturesque islands including Tivua, Nanuyakoto, Savusavu Bay, Nananu-I-ra and Sali Sali Island.
One of the most endearing features of this cruise is the generous welcome from Fijian village locals living on islands rarely visited by tourists. Passengers will be given the extraordinary opportunity to experience village life and partake in a kava ceremony, enjoy a traditional ‘lovo” (earth oven) feast and dance to the drum of the meke (dance).

Early Booking Saver (EBS) fares start from just $1995.00 per person twin share and the cruise departs Denarau Marina at 2.00pm.

Price includes shipboard accommodation, all meals, guided village and island tours, glass bottom boat excursions, on board entertainment and use of the ship's facilities including a swimming pool, spa, sauna, sun deck, cocktail bar and much more.

New 2009 Dates for Northern Fijian Dateline Cruise

Due to the popularity of the unique Northern Fijian Dateline Cruise, Captain Cook Cruises has added an extra departure date to the schedule for 2009, bringing total scheduled departures to eight.

The new 2009 departure dates are: 31March, 05 May, 02 June, 30 June, 04 August, 01September, 06 October and 03 November.

The seven night Northern Fijian Dateline Cruise is an amazing cruise that reveals the unique history, art and culture of the Northern Fiji Islands and allows passengers the ultimate experience of standing’ on the International Dateline.

Developed after months of extensive research and searching for secluded and exclusive locations, passengers are taken beyond the Yasawa Islands to very remote and exotic tropical Fijian islands.

Day trips include the historic island of Ovalau which still features 19th Century colonial architecture and waterfront promenades from colonial rule, the Bouma Waterfall lagoon on Taveuni Island, the extinct volcanic crater, hot springs and thriving markets on Savusavu, a special children’s choral church service at Waiyevo and of course the 180th Meridian – the arbitrary Dateline between today and tomorrow on Taveuni Island.

There is plenty of swimming, snorkelling and diving off picturesque islands including Tivua, Nanuyakoto, Savusavu Bay, Nananu-I-ra and Sali Sali Island.
One of the most endearing features of this cruise is the generous welcome from Fijian village locals living on islands rarely visited by tourists. Passengers will be given the extraordinary opportunity to experience village life and partake in a kava ceremony, enjoy a traditional ‘lovo” (earth oven) feast and dance to the drum of the meke (dance).

Early Booking Saver (EBS) fares start from just $1995.00 per person twin share and the cruise departs Denarau Marina at 2.00pm.

Price includes shipboard accommodation, all meals, guided village and island tours, glass bottom boat excursions, on board entertainment and use of the ship's facilities including a swimming pool, spa, sauna, sun deck, cocktail bar and much more.

Michael Palin: Eighty Days Revisited

I'm conscious, as ever, that a lot of water has flown under the bridge since my last message. Since then I've been working hard at an edit of my Diaries 1980 -1988 in time for publication next year, whilst watching Archie grow up and trying to come to terms with my identity theft by a hockey mum in Alaska. And no, Sarah Palin is not my sister, daughter or alias. And I'm Sahara Palin not Sarah.

After a grey old summer in London I'm about to set out for the heat again with some of the old team, on a new journey, currently called 80 Days Revisited, which will hopefully be shown as a one-hour special on BBC-1 around Christmas. At the same time Weidenfeld and Nicolson are publishing a new edition of Around The World In Eighty Days. Because some of the original pictures have gone missing in the twenty years since, we've trawled the archives and found some great new photographs and the book will be completely re-designed. I've written some new material, including a new preface and a short new chapter describing our return visit. So here, good and patient website friends, is the latest on the latest journey.


Eighty Days Revisited

A new look at an old adventure

In Eighty Days Revisited we may not be going back to the Reform Club or ballooning over the Rockies, but we will be returning to the scene of one of the best-remembered sequences of any of my travel adventures, the dhow journey From Dubai to Bombay, episode three of Around The World In Eighty Days. As we sailed agonisingly slowly down the Persian Gulf on board one of world's oldest surviving traditional sailing ships we formed a unique relationship with our Indian crew. Mutual incomprehension gradually gave way to friendship and affection, as we accepted the fact that our lives, and the success of our journey Around The World In Eighty Days was in the hands of this band of ragged, under-paid sailors from Gujerat.

After a week at sea together, I found our farewell at Bombay to be one of the most emotional moments on all of my travels. As I said on film at the time : "It's almost impossible to accept that I shall never see them again".

Well, twenty years after we waved each other good-bye in the crowded waters off Bombay I'm trying to prove that nothing is impossible by setting out on a search for the crew of the Al-Sharma.

With the same cameraman who shot the original dhow journey we shall re-visit Dubai and meet those who found us the dhow in the first place, and then on to Bombay, now Mumbai, to see if, in the intervening twenty years that great teeming city has changed in more than just name. From Mumbai we take the over-night train north and west to the little town on the Indian Ocean from where many of Al-Sharma's crew hailed.

What happens here is far from certain, but I'm hoping to make contact with as many as possible of my old ship-mates. If all goes well we'll renew a unique friendship by sitting down together to watch, marvel and laugh ourselves silly at our adventures of twenty years' ago, when, together, we made our slow but happy way from the Middle East to India.

This return journey, the first I've ever attempted, will be as much of a challenge as the originals. There are plenty of if's and but's on the way, but, for me, and hopefully for you, this promises to make Eighty Days Revisited all the more exciting.


Michael P, September 2008

A Letter from an Environmentalist Who Works in the Galapagos

Ecoventura Executive President Santiago Dunn is a bright spot in today's global tourism arena. He's been working quietly in Ecuador on earth matters since 1990 from the Guayaquil headquarters of his family-owned company that ferries nature lovers into the fragile eco system of the Galapagos Islands on small, cutting-edge-green vessels.

While afloat and offshore the minutiae of human footprints, both foreign and indigenous, and their impacts are assessed by Dunn who believes it's possible to elevate consciousness levels around the world by allowing privileged travelers to see places like The Galapagos and in so doing learn how important it is to protect the environment.

In summer 2007 UNESCO put the Galapagos on its World Heritage sites risk list, citing alien species and pollution from tourists and immigrants as key issues.

Dunn views this as a positive step "because it will raise awareness so that corrective measures are taken."

Meanwhile he is modifying the engines on his fleet of four expedition yachts to create hybrid boats that will run by diesel and solar/wind energy. This ground-breaking technology will charge all electric/lights/appliances/bridge equipment and reduce fuel consumption by 10-20 percent. This conservation is in addition to the energy savings already realized though an operation policy that reduces engine RPMs.

"This very new technology has only been used to date on small private boats and not yet on commercial vessels," he says, noting that $100,000 was budgeted for a one year test/trial on one of his yachts before refitting his entire fleet. The target goal is to have full implementation by 2011.

This project and other work he has done offer a case study in best environmental practices. His mission for Ecoventura, that annually transports nearly 4,000 passengers, is to inspire others, including his passengers, to be part of the solution for the issues facing tourism in The Galapagos.

"We want to give our passengers the assurance that Ecoventura has taken every measure to ensure that they enjoy a safe, thrilling adventure without harming the unique wildlife or the fragile environment. We all live in this world and breath the same air; the least we can do is try to preserve it for our children and the generations to come," says Dunn.

Following is a brief chronology of Dunn's accomplishments:

- Since 1999, through a series of targeted projects, he has led Ecoventura to become the pacesetter in establishing the standard for responsible and sustainable environmental practices.

- In 2000 Ecoventura became one of the first recipients of SmartVoyager, a voluntary environmental certification developed by New York-based The Rainforest Alliance and Corporacion y Desarollo from Ecuador. The program gives a "green seal of approval" to tour boats that comply with requirements to tread lightly on the area's fragile eco-system.

- In 2005 he received the prestigious Individual Sustainable Standard-Setter award for making a significant contribution to environmental conservation and sustainability.

- In 2006 Ecoventura, in partnership with NativeEnergy, became the first Carbon Neutral operation in Galapagos (and Ecuador).

- In 2007 Ecoventura partnered with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) to create the Galapagos Marine Biodiversity Fund which targets environmental education and marine conservation by strengthening the local communities' ability to manage natural resources.

Megan Epler Wood of Burlington, VT, head of EplerWood International, a consulting company that advises regions around the world on sustainability issues, notes that Santiago Dunn has made Ecoventura one of the most environmentally conscious travel companies in Ecuador, one which is admired by its passengers and travel companies globally.

"By partnering with NativeEnergy to offset carbon emissions, he is investing in the future of our planet by bringing corporate travel industry dollars directly to the development of new wind turbines on native lands and other renewable energy sources," she says. "What is really significant," she adds, "is that Dunn is not waiting for his passengers to "opt-in" to an offset program; he is paying the full amount for offsets upfront to ensure his company is carbon neutral. "

To receive a copy of Ecoventura's 2009 catalog as well as information on tours to the Galapagos Islands, call toll-free 1.800.633.7972, or e-mail info@galapagosnetwork.com. To access current rates, schedules and itineraries you can log onto www.ecoventura.com/.

Cruise Weekly Comment: Giving Back

Cruise Weekly – Comment by Roderick Eime

Expedition and adventure cruising is all about rewarding and enriching experiences and one of the best examples is giving back to the tiny remote communities you visit.

My recent trip to PNG aboard Orion reminded me of the immense satisfaction one gets by making small and inexpensive donations to these villages. Stuff we take for granted like school books, Band-Aids and paracetamol are prized commodities in some of these isolated places. I made an impromptu visit to a village on Fergusson Island, north of Alotau, and asked to see the school library and hospital. I've seen more books in better condition in my local Vinnies store and the hospital was barely a sick bay. Even as I chatted with the nursing sister in charge, a young woman was carried in unconscious and burning with fever. There wasn't even a Panadol to give her and I watched on helplessly, wringing my hands.

Please, if you are about to embark on an expedition cruise, ask your tour company earnestly about what supplies you can take with you in your spare luggage space. They should be well versed about what items are needed at your destination. Forget cash, toys, sweets and knick-knacks, bring first-aid supplies, old primary school text books, stationery items, reading glasses and children's clothes.

From my experience, this form of constructive interaction strengthens our relationships without compromising the integrity or culture of the community and delivers an enormous sense of gratification among passengers. The look of profound disappointment on the faces of those travellers who came empty handed is something I hope never to see again.