Walk through Old Havana and you’ll soon spot them: women in bright ruffled dresses, towering headwraps, heavy beads and theatrical smiles, often holding an oversized cigar or a basket of flowers. They are commonly known as costumbristas, street performers who dress in traditional or folkloric Cuban-inspired costume and pose for photos with visitors.
The word comes from costumbrismo, a tradition in Spanish and Latin American art and literature that depicts everyday customs, clothing and local character. In Havana, the costumbristas are not historical re-enactors in a formal museum sense, but they have become part of the city’s visual theatre. Against the backdrop of pastel façades, wrought-iron balconies, vintage American cars and crumbling colonial plazas, they add colour, humour and human warmth to the historic streetscape.
You’ll often find them around Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza Vieja, Obispo Street and other high-traffic areas in Habana Vieja. Some dress as colonial-era characters, while others draw on Afro-Cuban religious and cultural imagery, especially the white-clad look associated with Santería traditions. Many are skilled at working the crowd: a wink, a joke, a cigar offered for the camera, then a friendly request for payment.
How much do they earn? It varies widely. They usually work for tips, not a fixed wage. A typical visitor might pay around US$1 to US$5 for a photo, sometimes more for a longer interaction or group shot. On a busy cruise-ship or tour-group day, a popular costumbrista in a prime location might earn a useful amount by local standards. On quiet days, earnings can be modest and unpredictable.
For travellers, the etiquette is simple: ask before taking a photo and agree on a tip first. These women are not just background decoration; they are working performers. Treat them with the same respect you would give a guide, musician or street artist.
In a city where history often feels staged by time itself, Havana’s costumbristas occupy a curious space between tradition, tourism and performance. They may not be relics of the past, but they have become part of the living scene, bright, cheeky and unmistakably Havana.
Images by Roderick Eime
For information about tours that include Cuba and other out-of-the-way sights in Latin America, contact Movidas Journeys
