At the Mayan ruins of Xunantunich, a sense of Belize's mystical past remains
Sunlight sparkles through a late morning drizzle as I cross the Mopan River on the tiny hand-crank ferry. I'm heading for Xunantunich, Belize's most accessible Mayan site. The ruins lie a mile from the river outside San Ignacio, a village near the Guatemala border.
The ferry bumps ashore, and I ease my 4x4 uphill along the narrow jungle road. My thoughts evaporate at the crest of the hill as the monolithic pyramid El Castillo looms above the forest canopy. Its presence is emphasized by the sunlight glistening off its massive, rain-soaked limestone blocks.
Archaeologists believe the one-square-mile complex, with its 25 pyramid temples and palaces arranged around six main plazas, was once a major Mayan ceremonial centre. Xunantunich, or "Stone Woman," got its name from the legend of a female ghost that haunts the site. Villagers say she has fire-red eyes, wears a flowing white gown and is usually seen climbing the steps of El Castillo.
My first stop is the museum, with displays describing pyramid construction and the evolution of the Mayan culture. The 3-D model of the site is especially informative, as much of the city still lies shrouded in jungle.
I leave the museum and head over to El Castillo for a view of the complex. With camera at the ready I start climbing, hoping for a ghostly encounter. Instead I experience a very different apparition-a panorama of temples floating in a sea of greenery.
ABOUT BELIZE
Belize, located in Central America, was a significant region in the ancient Mayan civilization. The Maya inhabited Belize from 2000 BCE to 1500 CE, leaving a rich cultural and archaeological legacy behind.
The Maya civilization in Belize flourished during the Classic Period (250-900 CE), with major cities like Caracol, Lamanai, and Xunantunich emerging as centers of trade, politics, and spirituality. These cities featured impressive architecture, including pyramids, temples, and plazas.
The Maya in Belize developed a sophisticated writing, astronomy, and mathematics system. They also cultivated crops like maize, beans, and squash, and created a complex social hierarchy.
The Post-Classic Period (900-1500 CE) saw the decline of the Classic Maya cities, but the region continued to be inhabited by Maya groups. The arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century brought significant changes to the region, including the introduction of Christianity and the decline of the Maya population.
Belize is home to three main Maya groups: the Q'eqchi', Mopan, and Yucatec. Efforts are being made to preserve Maya culture, language, and traditions and to protect and conserve the country's rich archaeological heritage.
Main image: Belize Destiny Tours
